The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 transformed the path of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's vibrant 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"That time was the peak of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is not the only one. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a profound shift. "I feel, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of far-right politics, the backlash against progressive values, and the reinforcement of narrow beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the Blair era, now a more divisive political force looms as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of cultural optimism, has become contentious again.

According to Enninful, the solution has consistently been to celebrate culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of influential figures from music.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I hope this phase will pass."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a pioneering career built on fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, curvy models, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales grew.

"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s commercially unwise," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has recently launched his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … this duality gave me a sense of being on the inside and the outside."

Contrary to the stereotype of fashion editors as brash and highly strung, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His life has involved hardship, including openly discussed battles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I endured such a difficult period for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be defined narrowly has led him beyond the world that built his career. He is now putting together a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to capture the decade's artistic collaboration – and give platform to those who lacked a spotlight at the time.

"Institutions didn't always shine a light on the right artists because they lacked the right pedigree," he comments.

This venture itself operates on a novel business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "The question is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful stands as one of the world's most influential industry leaders. His story, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the younger Edward make of the Edward of today? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be proud. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have underestimated me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."